|
| |
|
EATING AND DRINKING |
| |
Whatever your budget, there's no shortage of places to eat in
Zagreb. There's a wide range of Croatian cuisine, and any number of
pizzerias, especially along Tkalciceva. For snack food , the best place
to find burek or cheap grills is the area around Dolac market, just
above Trg bana Jelacica. Pingvin , inside the courtyard at Teslina 7, is
a good sandwich bar open until 2am. There's a 24-hour bakery, Pekarna
Dora, between the train station and the centre at Strossmayerov Trg 7.
Picnic supplies can be purchased from the stalls of Dolac or from the
Veterinaria supermarket (daily 7am-midnight) in the subterranean
Importanne shopping centre in front of the train station. For
restaurants, you can expect to pay 60-100kn for a decent meal and most
places that we've listed are within that price range. If it's necessary
to book a table in advance, we've included a telephone number.
There's a wealth of cafés and bars offering outdoor seating in the
pedestrian area around Gajeva and Bogoviceva, and particularly along
Tkalciceva, just north of Trg bana Jelacica: it's really a question of
finding a free table to watch the world go by.
Restaurants
Boban , Gajeva 9. Popular and central pasta venue in the vaulted
basement of the stylish café of the same name. Owned by the father of
soccer star Zvonimir Boban. Daily 10am-midnight.
Cantinetta , Teslina 14. Good-quality Croatian and Italian food just
south of the main square. Chic, but not too expensive. Mon-Sat
11am-11pm.
Korcula , Teslina 17. Well-regarded fish restaurant which serves
excellent squid. Daily 9am-midnight.
Lenuci , Zrinjevac 15. Large, subtly decorated Mexican restaurant and
cocktail bar. Daily 11am-midnight.
Lopud , Kaptol 10 (tel 01/48-14-594). Well-respected seafood restaurant
just north of the cathedral, offering fresh fish flown in every morning
from Dubrovnik. Mon-Sat 11am-11pm.
Marco Polo, Dolac market. Cheap, enormous and reasonably authentic
pizzas - some pasta dishes too.
Nokturno , Skalinska 4. In a side street just off Tkalciceva, offering
serviceable pizzas, varied lasagnes, and good salads. Daily 9am-11pm.
Pivnica Medvedgrad , Savska 56. In an unfashionable part of town, 1.5km
southwest of the centre, but the traditional Croatian meat dishes are
served in large, cheap portions and the beer is excellent. Daily 10am-midnight.
Pod Grckim Topom , Zakmardijeve stube 5 (tel 01/48-33-607). Good
Croatian food in a small restaurant on the steps leading down from
Strossmayerovo Setalise to Trg bana Jelacica, with a terrace overlooking
the lower town. Daily 11am-midnight.
Rubelj , Dolac market. Cheapest central place for simple but tasty
grilled-meat standards. Daily 9am-11pm.
Stari Fijaker , Mesnicka 6. A dimly lit, intimate restaurant serving
local cuisine. Mon-Sat 8am-11pm, Sun 10am-10pm.
Cafés and bars
Atrij , Teslina 7. One of several café/bars in a courtyard just south of
the main square, heaving with bright young things at weekends.
@VIP , Preradovicev Trg. Breezy new café with a few super sleek screens
for Internet access.
Bulldog Pub , Bogoviceva. A typically elegant Zagreb bar and pavement
café, this is one of the most popular meeting places in the town centre.
Dobar Zvuk , Gajeva 18. Popular, pub-style café-bar with moderately
bohemian clientele.
Kolding , Berislaviceva 8. Civilized cellar bar with turn-of-the-century
furnishings. Nice place for an intimate drink.
Melin , Kosarska 19. Opposite the Oliver Twist, this energetic pub is a
terrific alternative to the posier establishments nearby.
Oliver Twist , Tkalciceva 60. Three floors of lively, solid beer (mainly
Irish) drinking.
Tolkein , Vranicanijeva. Relaxed Gradec bar, with a pleasant leafy
courtyard.
Music, theatre and festivals
Zagreb offers a rich and varied diet of high culture, with the Croatian
National Theatre at Trg marsala Tita 15 (Hrvatsko narodno kazaliste;
ticket office Mon-Fri 10am-1pm & 5-7.30pm, Sat 10am-1pm & 90min before
each performance, Sun 30min before each performance; tel 01/48-28-532),
providing the focus for serious, Croatian-language drama , as well as
opera and ballet . The city's main orchestral-music venue is the
Lisinski Concert Hall south of the train station at Trg Stjepana Radica
4 (Dvorana Vatroslav Lisinski; ticket office Mon-Fri 9am-8pm, Sat
9am-2pm; tel 01/61-21-166). Intimate chamber-music concerts take place
at the Croatian Musical Institute (Hrvatski glazbeni zavod), Gunduliceva
6 (tel 01/48-30-822). The free monthly English-language pamphlet Events
and Performances , available from the Zagreb tourist office, contains
listings of all forthcoming events.
Zagreb's annual folklore festival , held at the end of July, is one of
the city's biggest events, with performances of ethnic music and dance
from all over the world, usually taking place on an outdoor stage in the
upper town, just off Jezuitski Trg. Advance information is available
from the tourist office or from the Festival Organizers (tel
01/46-11-808).
Discos and clubs
Nightlife centres around a moderate selection of discos and clubs, many
of which present the best opportunities for catching live rock and jazz.
Aquarius, Jarun. Popular venue at the eastern end of Lake Jarun, 4km
southwest of the centre, specializing in techno and drum 'n' bass.
Occasional host to live bands.
BP Club , Teslina 7. Jazz club and relaxed late-night drinking haunt,
although it can be difficult to get in when live bands are playing.
Gjuro II , Medvescak 58. Relaxed cellar club with varied programme of
dance music and alternative rock, with regular live music.
Mocvara , Tvornica Jedinstvo building, Trnjanski nasip. Unpretentious
cultural centre in an old factory on the banks of the River Sava. Live
gigs (usually alternative rock), film shows and club nights - something
happening every night. Take any bus heading for Novi Zagreb and alight
just before the bridge - the club is on your right.
Saloon , Tuskanac 1a. Legendary Zagreb meeting place in a leafy corner
of town 500m west of the centre. Dressy, showbizzy clientele, but it's
not dishearteningly exclusive by any means. Music is an enjoyable mish-mash
of commercial disco.
Tvornica , Subiceva 1. Former ballroom just north of the bus station now
hosting live rock, club nights and theatre.
|
|
MORE INFORMATION |
|
|
| |
| |
|
